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I have a few and have tried them, but find for trolling I get better results with lipless Raps and Live Targets. Don't think I've had a bite on them yet. Got the glow tiger, orange tiger, green tiger, perch, walleye, shad, and blue white. All at WSO, pre going out of business sale. Holding out on final judgement this ice season.
 

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The Kamooki is not a bad lure at all. I went to LW for the first time last March and it far outproduced both Live Target- Golden Shiners and Rapala- Rippin Raps for me, that were both in much smaller sizes. All were tipped with a minnow head. I think that most people just don't know how to use a Kamooki properly. It has a unique action and not just for ripping. It naturally sits nose heavy and tips back and forth while twitched, along with pauses, these variations will often trigger bites. Initially, I though the single tail end treble hook would contribute to more dropped fish but almost all the fish I caught with them took it deep and were quite well hooked. Another advantage of having no top treble, is that it doesn't hook on the side of the ice hole as often when bringing in a bigger fish.

That being said, I am not a big fan of lipless rattle cranks. They have their place but there are times and conditions when I believe them to actually scare bigger fish away instead of attracting them. Very rarely will I ever use one on the Red.
 

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the clackin rap and the kamooki are very different baits. the clackin rap is much louder forsure. I use kamooki's in LOTW because the water is clearer. I find louder baits work better on LW if for nothing other than attracting fish to my dead stick. Like Lirwing said it is the rocking that triggers strikes more than the rattle.
 

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The Walleye's rock hard upper palate and massive head shakes make it difficult at the best of times to get a bigger fish started in the hole. Initially I thought the single treble hook just on the tail section of a Kamooki was sufficient for larger Walleye but have since changed my tune. I now add a top treble c/w snap ring that just hangs off to the side. I borrowed some of similar size from some of my summer cranks. I find that this does help to reduce dropped fish somewhat, especially with mouth or lip hooked fish that smash it or take it sideways. The ones that take it deep usually aren't a problem.

It also helps to have a small snap eye tied into your line to mark the ice thickness. When you see this mark, you know that you have to slow down and ease the fish into the start of the hole gently. An alternative is to tie a leader material to your main line using a uni to uni knot. I prefer this method as it doesn't appear on your flasher but I still use braid line for both my main line and leader material.
 

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I tried the middle and small size Kamooki trolling again this summer with success on the walleye and fire tiger but more success with fire tiger and silver clackin and ripping raps.
 

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And were you actively jigging it or letting it rock on the bottom deadstick?



One of both .. dead stick was about 2 feet off bottom and the other I dropped down just lifted off bottom and the fish Cranked it.. But i would have missed if i didn't take a tip Donovan P Suggested.. putting another hook on like a stinger but bigger..:-D:-D:-D
 

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A better mouse trap than those Kamooki $$ grabbers is a jig with a blade and a salted minnow.
Hmmm, wonder where you got that idea...that you passed off as your own...and then emailed to the owner of Fin-Tech...that I used to be on pro staff with....that forwarded your email to me with the subject line that read "This guy claims your idea is his lol"

Only thing is, you used the wrong jig. It's supposed to be a Zone-R jig built for current, rather than a Knuckle Ball jig that's meant to be a stand-up jig.

...bozo. ...err, sorry..."Doc Bozo".

#outted
#nointegrity
#slimymovedude
#Idontreallygive2shitsitsjustprettyfunnyhowlamethatissoIthoughtIdshare
 
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