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Hmmm... Most rigs like that are setup similarly, second or third hole from the top... Dropping it will increase your holeshot (with right prop) but might drop your top speed, which I think is low for that rig... I know guys with G3 tillers and 75 Yamahas that push the 37-38 mark... I have a 1800 pro-v tiller with a 70 that does 32 with two guys in it, so 35 seems real low to me for that set up... Sounds to me like you need a prop with more cup and bow lift, maybe a 17P 4 blade to help holeshot and get more of the boat out of the water while on plane... just my $.02
 

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I sorta agree inmate, but usually you deal with motor height (cavitation plate height) first, then prop accordingly... In his case he said that it cavitates easy, so I though too high, but one hole up on an aluminum walleye boat is in the norm...

One other thing is, not all props are created equal, while not usually a concern until you get into higher horsepower set ups, prop flex will destroy your performance all across the board!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Yeah good point inmate. Try few diff props, pitches and see where my rpm are at and planing performance and record it. Might get lucky and find one that makes me happy b4 start making big changes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
I've only tried a factory yammy 13 1/2 x17 k prop but my tach wasn't working that trip, was getting mid 30 mph but was like I said b4, trimmed right out cause any lil turn or waves I would cavitate bad. Tried a factory yammy 13 1/2x19k stainless on wknd and really didn't seem to see a difference. Now that tach is new and working might be best for me to try that 17 again and see where my rpms are at. Then switch to the 19 and see. Do it all in the same day , like a trail error or just pure testing day.
 

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I sorta agree inmate, but usually you deal with motor height (cavitation plate height) first, then prop accordingly... In his case he said that it cavitates easy, so I though too high, but one hole up on an aluminum walleye boat is in the norm... One other thing is, not all props are created equal, while not usually a concern until you get into higher horsepower set ups, prop flex will destroy your performance all across the board!!!
didn't know he's tried more than one prop already. Didn't want him to go through the hassle of moving motor if he was going by a single prop. Back to regular scheduled program....
 

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No Show...


Step 1 Get the anti fav plate even with the bottom of the hull... Post some photos is your not sure

Step 2. Run and record your WOT, new yach can be out but at this point any info is better than no info..

Step 3 if the rpm is in the acceptable range then you play with props... Propping for your target WOT. Take note of where your anti fav plate is at WOT it should be free and clear again photos help

Step 4 you'll loose a bit of speed but as far as hole shot, staying on plane at slower speeds, and hooking up,on turns without trimming down much(yes trimming down in turns is normal operation) you'll be looking for a 4 blade... Your rig is too under underpowered to be a speed demon so might as well have it running smooth

[ame]http://youtu.be/_Pb5cGHikwc[/ame]

This is what your shooting for....
 
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No Show... Step 1 Get the anti fav plate even with the bottom of the hull... Post some photos is your not sure Step 2. Run and record your WOT, new yach can be out but at this point any info is better than no info.. Step 3 if the rpm is in the acceptable range then you play with props... Propping for your target WOT. Take note of where your anti fav plate is at WOT it should be free and clear again photos help Step 4 you'll loose a bit of speed but as far as hole shot, staying on plane at slower speeds, and hooking up,on turns without trimming down much(yes trimming down in turns is normal operation) you'll be looking for a 4 blade... Your rig is too under underpowered to be a speed demon so might as well have it running smooth Video Link: http://youtu.be/_Pb5cGHikwc This is what your shooting for....
I hate auto correct.....
 

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I've only tried a factory yammy 13 1/2 x17 k prop but my tach wasn't working that trip, was getting mid 30 mph but was like I said b4, trimmed right out cause any lil turn or waves I would cavitate bad. Tried a factory yammy 13 1/2x19k stainless on wknd and really didn't seem to see a difference. Now that tach is new and working might be best for me to try that 17 again and see where my rpms are at. Then switch to the 19 and see. Do it all in the same day , like a trail error or just pure testing day.
Having used a few stock aluminum yamaha props on F115 and f150, i can attest that altho they work, they are prob the "lowest performance" prop I have tried. Their stainless prop, on the other hand, is a real winner.

Save yourself a lot of time and effort and go to a 17p or 15 p prop (16's are hard to find!) - your rig will not spin a 19 anywhere near where it should - add three guys and gas, and you'll plow worse than you have to date.

Put a fin on, try a 17 or 15p 4 blade, whatever gets your RPM's at 5800-6000, and you'll be set as best you can be. Seen this issue on many many boats. The more you can spin it, the faster your boat will go - the faster your boat, the less plowing. a fin and 4 blade, at proper height, will help lift it and work together to solve issue.

Here you go:

http://boatpropellers.iboats.com/Ya...431530_Propeller/411/41717/?cart_id=583285071

http://boatpropellers.iboats.com/Ya...7.00&chart=73&engine_id=411&cart_id=583285071

Choose the smallest diameter 17p OR the largest diameter 15p
 

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I'm surprised that yammy won't turn a 19p I have a Honda 115 on an impact 1775 and it has no problem turning a 14 3/4 19p 3 blade prop it came with even loaded up full of people and fuel.
 

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I'm surprised that yammy won't turn a 19p I have a Honda 115 on an impact 1775 and it has no problem turning a 14 3/4 19p 3 blade prop it came with even loaded up full of people and fuel.
Two things - (1) the boat in question is wider and heavier, and (2) the Hondas produce a bit more torque than the Yammi (according to a boat mechanic).
 

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I stand corrected! The G3 states the v180 is 7'6" - narrower indeed than the Impact.
Most of the 18' boats I see are on a 19p prop if close to their rated Hp - but so many are not, and hence the 17p or lower just to get the RPM's up.
Of the F115's i see, the 17p is the most common, unless on a real big boat, then the 15p - altho I did see a way over-motored 16footer with a F115 pushing a 21 and absolutely screaming across the water!
My F150 on a big heavy boat runs a 17p aluminum, or a 16p stainless - that gets it to 5900rpm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Well a little update to my thread. Ordered a 17 pitch 4 blade prop, sadly the guy ordered me the wrong hub kit for my motor so had to wait another week. Showed up mid week. Also decided to order the SE hydro foil for motor as well, figured couldn't hurt. Bummer part is have had no time in evenings to try it, plus leave for week long moose trip this wknd. I want to thank everyone for your input and comments. Hoping can sneek boat out when get back on thanksgiving Monday for a test run. Think will try prop first out then add foil to see what changes etc it made .
 

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This is an old one…but essentially same problem. G3 172 with F115. Tried 3 props to date, all have their issues. Stock 13.25” 17pitch is the closest to winning…but it’s not great.
 

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G3 v175 FS with a 150 hp Yamaha

Turning Point 1-blade Propeller
Diameter: 14”
Rotation: RH
Pitch: 17”

WOT max: ~40 mph at 6000 rpm (in perfect conditions)


Hydrofoil noticeably gets me on plane faster than before I installed it.
 
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